Technique and expression 3: weave 3.5 hp Ladokcode: AX1 TE1 The exam is given to: Exchange Textile Design and Textile design 2 ExamCode: February 15 th 9-13 Means of assistance: Calculator, colorpencils, magnifying glass, ruler, pins, small lamp, tippex, formulas Total amount of point on exam: 73 p Requirements for grading G: 40 p Additional information: Examiner: The results are for the most part posted within three weeks after the exam, otherwise it s the following date: Important! Do not forget to write the Exam Code on each paper you hand in. Good Luck! 1
1. Which are the three basic weave structures? Name them and draw the smallest weave unit for each weave pattern. Vilka är de tre grundbindningarna? Namnge dem och rita den minsta binderapporten för varje bindning. 6 p 2. Gör en kort beskrivning av vävningens fyra grundmoment! There are four motions of weaving! Which ones? Give a short explanation of each motion. 4 p 3. Vad väger ett garn med garnummer Nm 30/1 och längden 840 meter a. vikten? b. räkna om till Ne 1 c räkna om till Ne 2 d räkna om till Ne 3 e räkna om till Tex nummer f räkna om till Denier nummer What is the weight of a yarn with yarn-number Nm 30/1, and with a length of 840 meters? a. what is the weight of the yarn? b. convert the Nm yarnnumber to Ne1 c. convert the Nm yarnnumber to Ne2 d. convert the Nm yarnnumber to Ne3 e. convert the Nm yarnnumber to Tex f. convert the Nm yarnnumber to Denier 6 p 2
4. Draw one weave unit of each weave pattern from the formulas. Count the K-value for each weave pattern. Rita en rapport av vardera bindning enligt formlerna och räkna ut K-värdet för varje bindning. 6 p 5. Combine the following "weave pattern names with correct weave pattern group: Only use the number once. Kombinera följande bindningsnamn med rätt bindningsgrupp: 6p 1. Moleskin Basic weave pattern 2. Houndstooth Blocks of warp and weft faced areas 3. Aida Satin variation 4. Damask diasper Color effect 5. Hohlstoff Plain weave variation 6. Rep (rib) Crêpe Twill variation Double weave Warp-faced, double-faced 3
6. Construe a pointed (diamond) twill from the basic weave New threading: 4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2 New weft order: 1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3 Show all the steps you have drawn. Which is the name for the basic weave? Konstruera en spetskypert utifrån grundbindningen Omsolvning: 4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2 Ny inslagsordning: 1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3,1,2,3,4,1,2,4,3,2,1,4,3 Redovisa alla steg du ritat. Namnge grundbindningen. 9 p 7. Construe a checked double weave (hohlstoff) with hopsack 2 as weave pattern on the face 2 and a twill T 3 Z as reverse weave pattern in the white areas of the motif. 1 The twill is the face weave pattern in the dark areas of the motif, and the hopsack is the reverse weave pattern. Ratio in both warp and weft are 1:1 10 p Motif (motiv): 4
8. Analyze this sample, put it in the way it is on the picture. Analyze the weave pattern, colororder in warp and weft, and make the threading on as few shafts as possible. Draw the pegplan. Draw 4 reports of the weavepattern (2 in warpdirection and 2 in weftdirection). Save one weaveunit down to the left. Draw the rest as colour effect. Which are the names of the weave patterns in this sample? Analysera det här provet, lägg det som bilden visar. Analysera bindningen, färgordning i varp och väft samt gör solvningen på så få skaft som möjligt samt rita kortkedjan. Rita 4 rapporter av bindningen (2 i väftled och 2 i varpled) och spara en rapport längst ner till vänster i bindemönstret. Rita resten som färgeffekt. Vilka bindningar består provet av? 16 p 5
9. Analyse enclosed sample cloth, only the following steps 4,5,6,8,13,15,26 and 27. 100 meter finished length. Composition: 100% wool Width 130 cm Yarnnumber in warp and weft: Ne3 6/1. Convert to Nm! Shrinkage in warp and weft are calculated. Calculate the squaremeter weight in gram/m 2 and calculate the weight of one running meter, 130 cm width. Draw the weave pattern with threading and peg-plan. Please hand over all calculations you done, together with the analysis! Analysera bifogat tygprov, enbart punkter 4, 5, 6, 8, 13, 15, 26 och 27 på analysbladet 100 m färdig längd Komposition: 100% ull Färdigbredd 130 cm Garnnummer i varp och väft: Ne3 6/1. Räkna om till Nm! Inarbetning i väft och varp är angiven Räkna ut vikten gram / m 2 samt löpmetervikt i 130 cm bredd Rita bindning, solvning, med så få skaft som möjligt, samt en mönsterkedja. OBS! Lämna in alla uträkningar till analysen. 10 p Sample cloth, shown in the warp direction/ Analysprov visas i varpriktningen: 6