Omvärldsbevakning av pågående initiativ inom området mikroplaster kopplat till textil

Transkript

1 Omvärldsbevakning av pågående initiativ inom området mikroplaster kopplat till textil Sammanställning utförd av Dr. Anna Brismar, Green Strategy, på uppdrag av Naturvårdsverket

2 Författare: Dr. Anna Brismar, Green Strategy Uppdragsgivare: Naturvårdsverket, Stockholm Bilder: Unsplash (copyright) Format: Tillgänglig som PDF för enstaka utskrifter, samt online via länk. Upplaga: Första versionen Green Strategy, 2018 Green Strategy Tel: +46 -(0)

3 FÖRORD Denna rapport är en omvärldsbevakning av pågående och nyligen avslutade initiativ inom mikroplaster och textilier i Sverige, Norden, Europa och globalt. Med nyligen avslutade initiativ menas projekt som pågått fram till 2017 eller senare. Omvärlds-bevakningen omfattar myndighetsinitiativ, forskningsprojekt och samarbetsprojekt mellan olika aktörer. Sådana samarbetsprojekt kan vara gemensamma initiativ mellan klädföretag, branschorganisationer, frivilligorganisationer och/eller forskningsinstitut. Sammanställningen gör inte anspråk på att vara heltäckande utan är endast övergripande. Syftet med sammanställningen över pågående och nyligen avslutade initiativ är att få en mer heltäckande bild av vad som görs inom området mikroplaster kopplat till textil. Sammanställningen kan därmed bidra till att inspirera och skapa bättre förutsättningar för vidare arbete, samt minska risken för överlappande initiativ. Sammanställningen kommer att användas som underlag till nästa möte med Dialog för en hållbar textil värdekedja med fokus på miljö och kemikalier med tema: Mikroplaster och textilier. Mötet är planerat till den 15 mars 2018 i Göteborg och kommer att innehålla både presentationer och workshop på temat Mikroplaster och textil. Detta är det andra mötet som sker inom ramen för Dialog för en hållbar textil värdekedja med fokus på miljö och kemikalier, vilket är ett treårigt projekt initierats av Naturvårdverket och Kemikalie-inspektionen med syftet att bidra till minskad miljö- och hälsopåverkan från textilbranschen i hela värdekedjan för att skapa resurseffektiva och giftfria kretslopp. Dr. Anna Brismar, Green Strategy, På uppdrag åt Naturvårdsverket Stockholm,

4 NO. INITIATIVE / PROJECT RESPONSIBLE ORGANISATION DATE / TIME SPAN LIFE CYCLE / GENERAL DESIGN PHASE MATERIAL PRODUCTION FINAL MANUFACTURING USER PHASE WASTE MANAGEMENT GEOGR. LEVEL SUMMARY SOURCE LINK / WEBSITE GOVERNMENTAL AND MULTI-STAKEHOLDER INITIATIVES SOURCE OF POLLUTION IN THE VALUE CHAIN 1 Swedish EPA Project: Swedish Environmental Protection To be presented to To identify and remedy the Naturvårdsverket ska fortsätta arbetet med att identifiera och åtgärda viktigare källor "Åtgärder om utsläpp av Agency (Naturvårdsverket) "Regeringskansliet" at most important sources of till utsläpp av mikroplaster till vattenmiljön i Sverige, med utgångspunkt från tidigare 697 mikroplaster till vattenmiljö" latest on May 31, 2019 microplastic release to aquatic uppdrag (dnr M2015/2928/Ke). Olika verktyg för riskhantering bör övervägas, till environments in. exempel stöd till upphandlande myndigheter, ändringar i föreskrifter och vägledningar samt skärpt tillsyn och dialog med berörda branscher. Naturvårdsverket ska även analysera olika alternativ till reglering av utsläpp av mikroplaster till vattenmiljön. Analysen ska omfatta förutsättningar för författningsförslag för reglering av utsläpp, inklusive krav för anläggning och skötsel, av konstgräsplaner och andra utomhusanläggningar för idrott och lek från vilka utsläpp av mikroplaster riskerar att ske. 2 European Commission Project: Eunomia Research & Consulting Ltd Feb Nov 2017 An investigation of sources, EU During 2017, the European Commission worked on developing an overall strategy on "Investigating options for (Bristol, UK) under subcontract to ICF pathways and options for plastics, covering both micro and macro plastics, and with a first set of measures to reducing releases in the International; reduction of microplastics reduce their release and impacts. This project aims to support the upcoming strategy aquatic environment of contact@eumicroplastics.com emitted by products, such as by investigating sources, pathways and options for reduction of microplastics emitted microplastics emitted by (but textiles. by products, such as textiles, car tyres, synthetic turf sports pitches, during their life not intentionally added in) cycle, or by other processes, such as losses of plastic pellets during production and products" transport. It is conducted in parallel with a sister study which focuses on products that contain intentionally added microplastics such as those known to be contained in many cosmetics. 3 European Commission European Commission, Brussels January 2018 An overall strategy, addressing EU The "European Strategy for Plastics in a Circular Economy" presents key Strategy: "A European (Communication from the EC to the design, production, user phase, commitments for action at EU level. It lays the foundations to a new plastics lex.europa.eu/resource.html?uri=cellar:2df5d1d2-fac7- Strategy for Plastics in a EP, the Council, the European repair, recycling and end of use economy, where the design and production of plastics and plastic products fully 11e7-b8f5-01aa75ed71a /DOC_1&format=PDF Circular Economy" ( , Economic and Social Committee and (waste management). respect reuse, repair and recycling needs and more sustainable materials are COM(2018)) the Committee of the Regions). developed and promoted. 4 Danish project: Development A collaboration project between the ongoing Industrial washing of mats and Denmark The project is a two-year collaboration between the Danish Technological Institute, of a new method for detecting Danish Technological Institute (Aarhus substrates. Test different cleaning Aarhus University of Engineering, Berendsen Textile Service, AL2 Technology, fra-tekstilvask-skal-renses-for-mikroplast/ and filtering out microplastics University of Engineering) and chemical-mechanical filtration in Dankalk. It is funded by the Environmental Technology Development and during industrial washing of Berendsen Textile Service washing machines of synthetic mats, Demonstration Program (MUDP) in Denmark. The project focuses on industrial mats and substrates in to prevent the release of washing of mats and substrates located in thousands of institutions and offices Denmark. microplastics with washing water. throughout the country. Some of the rubbish washed by the mats is micro-plastic from dust and shoe sole. The project will map the microplastic discharge and investigate how to remove particles and fibers, which are often less than 10 microns in size. The project will develop a method of detecting and capturing 80% of the plastic particles before leaving the wastewater laundry. The hope is that the experience from the project can be spread to other forms of industrial washing. 5 International multi- Roland Geyer (Assoc. Professor) at October 2017 The Summit addressed all In order to address the growing threat of microfibers in the environment, Ocean stakeholder summit: the Bren School of Environmental relevant phases in the lifecycle Conservancy and UC Santa Barbara s Bren School of Environmental Science & Summit-Accelerates-Cross-Sector-Collaboration-Microfiber- "Microfiber Leadership Science & Management, Univ. of of textiles, including design, Management convened a multi-stakeholder Microfiber Leadership Summit in October Pollution Summit" in October 2017 California Santa Barbara; Nicholas production and use in California. The Summit gathered leaders from the academic, NGO, corporate Mallos (Director) at Trash Free Seas and regulatory field, with the purpose to discuss the current state of knowledge on Program, Ocean Conservancy. microfiber pollution, develop a roadmap to guide future research and innovation, and forge relationships to pursue future collaborations and implement the roadmap. 6 International multi- Nicholas Mallos, Director, Trash Free All relevant phases in the The Roadmap is the outcome of the "Microfiber Leadership Summit" in Oct in stakeholder project: Seas Program, Ocean Conservancy lifecycle of textiles, including California. The Roadmap presents priority actions, identified by the Summit group, content/uploads/2018/01/microfiber-action-roadmap.pdf "Microfiber Action Roadmap" (nmallos@oceanconservancy.org) design, production and wear. that key stakeholders should take over the next five years to systematically ( = the outcome of the understand and address microfiber pollution from source to sea. It is a joint project Microfiber Leadership by Ocean Conservancy and Bren School of Environmental Science and Management Summit) (CA), with support from Future 500 and the Outdoor Industry Association. 7 MERMAIDS Life+ project: Maurizio Avella, Italian National Resea , ongoing The project aimed to The project aimed to demonstrate European sea The main objective of the LIFE - MERMAIDS project is to contribute to the mitigation "Mitigation of microplastics rch Council (CNR) through awareness demonstrate innovative innovative additives for detergent ecosystems of the environmental impact of microplastic and nanoplastic particles resulting from impact caused by textile (maurizio.avella@ipcb.cnr.it) raising via website additives to improve finishing and laundry products to avoid laundry wastewater on European sea ecosystems. This objective will be achieved by ex.cfm?fuseaction=search.dsppage&n_proj_id=4973&doct washing processes" textiles and finishing fibre garments microplastic removal in demonstrating and implementing innovative technologies, will be achieved by ype=pdf treatments to avoid garments laundry processes in wastewater. demonstrating and implementing innovative technologies, and additives for laundry microplastic removal in laundry processes and textile finishing treatments. processes. Finishing treatments based on chitosan and pectin showed promising results. 8 Greenpeace Report: "Fashion Authored by Madeleine Cobbing and A lifecycle perspective on the In this report we show that many options already exist that can slow down this at the Cross Roads" Yannick Vicaire, at Greenpeace, fashion industry's overconsumption and allow progress toward true circularity, changing the DNA of content/international/wp- Hamburg, Germany. environmental impacts, incl. fashion by internalising the best practices for sustainability, using the energy of content/uploads/2017/09/76e05528-fashion-at-the- microplastic release creativity to redesign future pathways. Instead of continuing the pattern of crossroads.pdf; overconsumption through a fast fashion fix, companies have an opportunity to create products and services that represent true value and authentic experience, at-are-microfibers-and-why-are-our-clothes-polluting-the- which also contribute to the adoption of more intrinsic values by customers and oceans/ society as a whole. 9 IUCN Report: "Primary Authors: Julien Boucher and Damien Microplastics in the Oceans: A Friot; IUCN, Gland, Switzerland Evaluation of Sources" Lifecycle perspective The objective of this report is to provide one of the first global quantitative assessments of the direct releases of primary microplastics of petrochemical origin s/ pdf into the world s ocean. This report seeks to contribute to a better identification and prioritisation of the sources and pathways of microplastic pollution. With this information, decision-makers and key stakeholders can make informed decisions and undertake targeted actions to address the problem. 10 Plastic Soup Foundation Maria Westerbos, Founder and ongoing Lifecycle perspective from The Plastic Soup Foundation (PSF) works towards change on a global level to stop the Director, Plastic Soup Foundation source to the oceans increasing pollution of the oceans and seas by plastics. PSF looks for solutions at the (maria@plasticsoupfoundation.org) source; promotes and supports measures and actions that prevent the break down and proliferation of plastic waste (at sea); and works closely together with leading experts, researchers, and enterprises to reduce the plastic contamination of the world s oceans. The Foundation also constantly draws attention to plastic soup through campaigns, news articles and social media.the organization is well known for its campaign "Beat the Microbead" (since 2012). Sida 1 av 6

5 11 The Outdoor Industry Beth Jensen, Senior Director of ongoing The Task Force aims to identify Questions asked: How can we Questions asked: What role should The Microfibers Task Force was established through the OIA Sustainability Working Association's "Microfibers Sustainable Business Innovation, data gaps throughout the as an industry create better consumer education or washing Group (a collaborative group of outdoor industry companies working together to business/microfibers; Task Force" against Outdoor Industry Association lifecycle performing materials that have machine innovations play? Are there improve environmental and social responsibility practice). The Task Force works to microplastics (bjensen@outdoorindustry.org; no harmful impact? And how catchment systems that would gather research and identify best practices around microfibers and ocean plastics in straight-on-microfiber-pollution/; sustainability@outdoorindustry.org) can we create test methods to prevent microfibers from getting an effort to better understand our impact and leverage points as an industry. Also, its rank fabrics that also include into our waterways? Would purpose is to exchange information and research to better understand the impacts outdoor-industry-issue-update/ fabrics shedding? educating consumers to change and to identify sustainable solutions that mitigate the impacts without causing other laundering habits have an impact? unintended consequences. The Task Force and broader Sustainability Working Group work to drive informed decision-making about the materials and processes used. 12 "Trash Free Seas Program" at Nicholas Mallos, Director, Trash Free The Alliance aims to The Alliance aims to reduce and The Alliance aims to reduce and Trash Free Seas Alliance is a co-operative group of businesses, conservationists and Ocean Conservancy Seas Program, Ocean Conservancy reduce and prevent plastic prevent plastic trash from entering prevent plastic trash from scientists focused on reducing plastic inputs into the ocean by 50% by (1) We (nmallos@oceanconservancy.org) trash from entering the the oceans, by mobilising and entering the oceans, through the mobilize the International Coastal Cleanup the world s largest volunteer effort on oceans, by changing encouraging behavioural change International Coastal Cleanup behalf of ocean health. (2) We research and share key details about what s trashing product design etc. among consumers and businesses. day (every year), research our ocean with the public, the scientific community and decision makers. (3) We sharing, etc. prevent trash from entering the waters by working with everyone from individuals to businesses to change the products, practices and behaviors that lead to ocean trash. 13 Parley for the Oceans - a space Louie Psihoyos, Executive Director of Lifecycle perspective, general Parley is the space where creators, thinkers, and leaders come together to raise for creators, thinkers and the Oceanic Preservation Society, New awareness for the beauty and fragility of our oceans and collaborate on projects that leaders to come together to York, USA can end their destruction. Artists, musicians, actors, filmmakers, fashion designers, raise awareness of the beauty journalists, architects, product inventors, and scientists have the tools to mold the and fragility of the oceans and reality we live in and to develop alternative business models and ecologically sensible to collaborate on projects to products to give us earthlings an alternative choice, an everyday option to change end world ocean destruction something. Everything starts with inspiration. Therefore every Parley is a curated gathering with a dedicated topic, presented by Parley Speakers to a carefully selected audience. The talks are meant to give an overview of the State of the Oceans in general, to present a specific cause, and to get the support for a related initiative or project. 14 "Ocean Clean Wash Maria Westerbos, Founder and ongoing via the The Campaign aims to The Campaign aims to push for The Campaign aims to push the The Ocean Clean Wash campaign was launched by Plastic Soup Foundation (PSF) in Campaign", by Parley for the Director, Plastic Soup Foundation Steering Group push for eco-friendly the development of synthetic development of a mechanical April After a strong response by the fashion industry, PSF is now partnering Oceans and Plastic Soup (info@oceancleanwash.org) coatings to prevent the yarns and fabrics that do not internal and/or external washing with Parley to unite their programs in the field of micro fiber pollution and to microfiber-pollution; Foundation. (See also Ocean release of plastic fibers release plastic fibers during machine filter to catch the plastic establish a united, global alliance of brands, governments, non-governmental Clean Wash Charter) washing fibers; and encourage the use of eco- organizations, and the science and creative industries. Through the campaign, Parley content/uploads/2016/04/psf.charter.ocean_.clean_.was friendly washing detergents that and Plastic Soup Foundation is thus forming an alliance to tackle synthetic microfiber h_.pdf prevent the shedding of plastic fibers pollution. The Clean Wash Campaign gathered more than 100 NGOs, scientists and well-known individuals as supporters from all around the world and, in 2017, a Steering Group of organizations was formed in order to take the lead in the fight against synthetic microfibers. 15 Plastic Scan, an online tool Willemijn Peeters, Founding Director ongoing With Plastic Scan, businesses quickly & Ocean Ambassador of the gain insight into their use of plastics, Netherlands at Searious Business as well as practical opportunities for improving their usage and treatment of plastic as a raw material. Plastic Scan, an online tool developed by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) and social enterprise, Searious Business has been launched at the Ocean Plastics Crisis Summit, held in London. With Plastic Scan, businesses quickly gain insight into their use of plastics, as well as practical opportunities for improving their usage and treatment of plastic as a raw material. The Plastic Scan tool makes the issue of plastics management approachable, measurable, and enables companies to leverage their ethical use and re-use of plastic into a Unique Selling Point. This is the best of both worlds: Reducing impact on the oceans, AND saving time, money, and resources while authentically increasing Corporate Social Responsibility. 16 UpGyres - "Stop Plastic Smog José Luis Gutiérrez-Garzia, Co- Lifecycle perspective. The initiative aims to educate and The initiative aims to develop Since 2015, UpGyres works to stop micro-fibres from synthetic clothing from Emissions" - The Plastic Smog founder and Project Director, UpGyres Preventative, awareness raise awareness among consumers, new equipment, technology and polluting our rivers, lakes and oceans by intercepting and diverting washing machine Emissions Closed Loop System (joseluis@upgyres.org) raising, waste management communities, governments, methodology to transform ocean lint from the sewage system and from marine vehicles wastewater discharges. Our (PSECLS) etc. businesses etc around solutions pollution into resources. To clean vision is to develop new equipment, technology and methodology for transforming related to marine plastic pollution. up the global ocean by ocean pollution into resources. Our mission is to implement efficient, eco-responsible implementing regenerative operations to recover and benefit from plastic and other ocean pollution. Our technologies, integrative design, strategy consists of: 1) Educating and raising awareness by engaging businesses, and a therapeutic process. schools, governments, communities and individuals in health and economic issues and solutions related to marine plastic pollution. 2) Preventing plastic from reaching waterways and the ocean by diverting waste at point source. 3) Cleaning up the global ocean by implementing Regenerative Technologies, Integrative Design and a Therapeutic Process* to marine plastic cleanup operations. 17 The 5GYRES Institute Anna Cummins, Co-Founder & Lifecycle perspective. The 5 Gyre Institute is a nonprofit organization in special consultative status with the Strategy Director; Marcus Eriksen, 5 United Nations Economic and Social Council since Our mission is to empower Gyres Institute Co-Founder & action against the global health crisis of plastic pollution through science, education, Research Director; The 5 Gyres and adventure. Our vision is a world free of plastic pollution! We're honored to be Institute, Los Angeles, CA members of Break Free From Plastic, an international movement that unites nonprofit organizations to fight plastic pollution, sharing the common values of environmental protection and social justice. We are also founding members of the Plastic Pollution Coalition, a global alliance of organizations, businesses, and thought leaders working toward a world free of plastic pollution and its toxic impact on humans, animals, and the environment. 18 Report: "A New Textiles Dr. Sven Herrman at the Ellen 2017 Lifecycle perspective. Design, Recommends more knowledge Recommended actions with regards to microfibres: Better understanding the Economy - Redesigning MacArthur Foundation (as part of the material production, product on use of chemicals in textile economic, environmental, and societal impacts of substances of concern and ads/publications/a-new-textiles-economy_full- Fahion's Future", by Ellen Circular Fibres Initiative) manufacturing, user phase, production (quantities, microfibres in the ocean, by: 1) Developing a robust evidence base on the usage of Report_Updated_ pdf MacArthur Foundation (sven.herrmann@ellenmacarthurfoun end-of-life, etc. substances, impacts). This can chemicals, including the amount used, as well as identification of substances of dation.org) inform innovations in textiles concern and the impacts of these; 2) Exploring of the socioeconomic impacts of construction and create microfibres in the ocean; and 3) Better understanding the root causes of the release materials fit for a circular of plastic microfibres from textile washing in order to inform innovations in textiles system. construction and to create materials fit for a circular system. Sida 2 av 6

6 19 An industry agreement Roberto Scazzola, January ongoing Lifecycle perspective. The Europe A new industry agreement for the prevention of microplastic release from washing of between various actors (incl. roberto.scazzola@aise.eu group agreed that viable synthetic textiles, endorsed by the European Commission. The European Textile and 39- EURATEX) to address the solutions need to be found to Apparel Confederation (EURATEX), the International Association for Soaps, cross_industry_agreement_prevention_of_microplastic_rel release of microplastic in the the release of microplastic into Detergents and Maintenance Products (A.I.S.E.), the European Outdoor Group (EOG), ease_into_aquatic_environment_washing_synthetic_textile aquatic environment. global marine and freshwater the European Man Made Fibres Association (CIRFS) and the Federation of European s_press_release_16jan2018.pdf Endorsed by the European during the entire lifecycle of Sporting Goods Industry (FESI) struck an agreement to address the release of Commission. textiles. microplastic in the aquatic environment. The group of European industry associations, representing the global value chain of garments and their associated maintenance, agreed that viable solutions need to be found to the release of microplastic into global marine and freshwater during the entire lifecycle of textiles; which is highlighted as one of the sources of microplastic. 20 The European Technology Paolo Canonico (President), SAATI, Lifecycle perspective, including The Platform promotes The Platform promotes The Platform promotes The Platform promotes industrial The Platform promotes industrial Europe The overall aim of the Platform is to foster long-term competitiveness of the Platform for the Future of Italy development and innovation of industrial innovation in industrial innovation in terms of industrial innovation in terms innovation in terms of, among other innovation in terms of, among European Textile and Clothing industry and to reinforce the position of Europe as a Textiles and Clothing textile materials terms of materials, materials, processes and of materials, processes and things, organisation and other things, organisation and leading global player in the development and manufacturing of fibres, textiles, textile- processes and technology; technology; products and technology; products and management. management. based products and apparel. The Platform works for a European expert network products and markets, markets, etc. markets, etc. involving industry, research organisations, public authorities, financial institutions and etc. other stakeholders to coordinate efforts in research, development and innovation, as well as the development of common industrial strategies and the implementation of a Strategic Research Agenda (SRA). The Platform promotes industrial innovation in terms of: (1) materials, processes and technology, (2) products and markets, and (3) organisation and management. All textile categories are addressed, i.e. clothing and fashion, interior and home textiles, and textiles for technical applications. 21 Rethink Plastic Alliance Delphine Lévi Alvarès, Coordinator of Lifecycle perspective, including Redesign plastics, making Advocates reduction of our plastic Advocates responsible plastic Europe Rethink Plastic is an alliance of leading European NGOs with one common aim: A the Rethink Plastic Alliance design, consumption, and them long-lasting, footprint by significantly cutting the management by empowering future that is free from plastic pollution. We represent hundreds of thousands of (delphine@rethinkplasticalliance.eu) management. reusable, recyclable, toxic- use of single-use plastic items, producers, retailers and active groups, supporters and citizens in every EU member state. We bring together free, and incorporating overpackaging and top littered municipalities to achieve policy and technical expertise from a variety of relevant fields and are part of the recycled content. products, while eliminating maximum collection and global Break Free from Plastic Movement, consisting of over 800 NGOs and millions of microplastics. recycling, while avoiding leakages citizens worldwide. into the environment. 22 Plastic Pollution Coalition Dianna Cohen, Chief Executive Officer ongoing Lifecycle perspective. We aim to empower more people (Dianna@plasticpollutioncoalition.org and organizations to take action to ) stop plastic pollution and to live plastic-free. The Plastic Pollution Coalition mission is to stop plastic pollution and its toxic impact on humans, animals, and the environment. PPC was founded in 2009 as a platform to amplify a common message through strategic planning and communication. Our more than 500 member organizations and a growing coalition of individuals seek to increase understanding of the plastic pollution problem and to find sustainable solutions. We aim to empower more people and organizations to take action to stop plastic pollution and to live plastic-free. 23 Video: "The Story of Michael O'Heaney (Executive Lifecycle perspective on Awareness-raising through the video This film was made to raise awareness and promote changes in consumer behaviour Microfibers" (by The Story of Director), The Story of Stuff Project microfibres - from source to (shared via social media and the around microfibres in our clothes and other textiles. It tells how all our clothes, from Stuff) Team sea. website), to encourage behavioural yoga pants and fleeces to underwear, all are increasingly made of synthetic materials, changes in terms of consumption but these synthetic fabrics have a big hidden problem. "When they re washed, they and use (including laudring). release tiny plastic bits called microfibers that flow down our drains, through water treatment plants, and out into our rivers, lakes and oceans by the billions." SWEDISH RESEARCH PROJECTS 24 Research project: Anne-Charlotte Hanning, Swerea IVF, Addresses how to design Addresses how to design and Addresses how to design and Addresses how washing machines The aim of the research project is to create knowledge and guidelines that will help Microplastics and textiles. (anne- and produce synthetics produce synthetic fabrics that produce synthetic fabrics that can be designed and equipped with a the textile industry to design and create clothes made of synthetic fabrics which do remove-microplastics-from-textiles Managed by SWEREA IVF charlotte.hanning@swerea.se) fabric that do not emit do not emit microplastics. do not emit microplastics. filter. not emit microplastics. The project will also investigate how washing machines are microplastics. designed and whether or not they can be equipped with a filter that can reduce the emissions of microplastics. More knowledge and data concerning loss of fibres due to use of different textiles can help companies design clothes that minimize the fibre emission. 25 Research report: Christina Jönsson, Swerea IVF, Conducted in late 2017 The study investigates the This study is a follow-up on a previous study made by IVF Swedish Environmental "Investigation of the to early To be occurrence of microplastics in Institute in This new study was conducted by Swerea IVF on behalf of the occurrence of microplastics (christina.jonsson@swerea.se) published in March 2018 the waste water at five different Swedish EPA. The purpose of the study was to investigate the occurrence of from the waste water at five textile production facilities. microplastics in the waste water at five different textile production facilities in different textile production. These facilities handle processes for pretreatment and/or dying and/or facilities in." printing and/or finishing of textiles. The production facilities collected waste water during one week of production and then sent the water samples to Swerea IVF for analysis. The method of analysis is a combination of filtration and microscopy. 26 Pilot study: "Microplastics Sandra Roos, Oscar Levenstam Arturin 2017 (ended) Recommends standardised test Advice on fabric The study showed no support Recommends removal of Recommends safe disposal of The group first explored what is known about the sources and risks of microfiber shedding from polyester and Anne-Charlotte Hanning, Swerea methods for microplastics construction for reduced for the assumption that fabrics microparticles, regardless of microplastic "waste" during pollution in the environment. Peer-reviewed science confirms that fibers enter local content/uploads/2017/06/mff-report-microplastics.pdf fabrics". Joint study by Mistra IVF, shedding from fabrics. microplastics shedding. made of recycled polymers origin, from fabrics already at production. waterways via treated wastewater, shedding from synthetic textiles (e.g. polyester, Future Fashion and Swerea (Sandra.Roos@swerea.se) Evidence suggests shed more than fabrics made of the production stage as point acrylic, polypropylene, polyamide and polyethylene) when laundered. IVF shedding is less when yarn virgin polymers. Regarding source emissions are easier to size is above the cutting equipment, ultrasound manage; safe disposal of microfibre range. and scissors were compared. microparticles. 27 Research report: "Swedish Kerstin Magnusson et al, IVL Swedish Published 2016, Revised Addresses the release of The report is an updated version of the report "Swedish sources and pathways for sources and pathways for Environmental Research Institute, March 2017 microplastics during household microplastics to the marine environment A review of existing data" from The microplastics to the marine washing of synthetic textiles. most important emissions for microplastics were found to be from road wear and environment A review of abrasion of tyres. The release of microplastics from household laundry is another existing data" (Number C 183) important source. In summary it can be concluded that Swedish coastal waters receive substantial amounts of microplastics from both land-based and sea-based sources. Quantitative data is often scarce or completely lacking and it is not possible to summarize the total Swedish discharge of microplastics to the sea. One of the few sectors where published data on microplastics was available from both source and pathway was the households. The yearly load of plastic particles from personal care products, synthetic fibres from laundry and household dust that is discharged to Swedish municipal wastewater was estimated to tons. The major part of this is retained in the wastewater treatment plants and around tons per year are estimated to be released to the water recipient. Sida 3 av 6

7 INTERNATIONAL RESEARCH PROJECTS 28 The Pata-Plast Study: Dr. Patricia Holden, Bren School of Published 2016 The study compares different types The study (a literature review and a series of washing experiments) was conducted to "MICROFIBER POLLUTION and Environmental Science and of synthetic Patagonia jackets (fleece quantify microfiber shedding from washing of synthetic jackets. Four different types documents/pataplastfinalreport.pdf; See also publication: the apparel industry" - an Management (University of California, and non-fleece) and a budget fleece of synthetic Patagonia jackets and one budget fleece jacket were tested. The study experiential study and Santa Barbara), in collaboration with jacket, as well as top and front- confirms that synthetic apparel is a substantial contributor to microplastic pollution, literature review Patagonia. loading washing machines. largely through the release of microfibers in washing machine effluent. The results indicate that clothing age, washing machine type, and clothing construction significantly alter shedding characteristics. 29 Joint research project: Patagonia and North Carolina State ongoing The study looked at The study aimed to identify what is The purpose of the study is to better understand characteristics in fibers and fabrics "MICROFIBER POLLUTION and University special characteristics in needed for developing a rapid test that lead to microfiber release and to develop a rapid test method to assess the microfiber-pollution/ the apparel industry" fibers and fabrics that lead method for measuring microfibre potential of fabric shedding during laundering both of which will help Patagonia and to microfiber release. release from synthetic textiles during our industry conduct R&D for new materials moving forward. The project focused on laundering. providing guidance on what should be included in a standardized test method to use to quantify microfiber shedding during laundering. 30 SIFO-project report: Beverley Henry, Kirsi LaitalaIngun and Published 2018 Addresses the need to: a) How designers can How consumers can use synthetic Wastewater treatment plants The objective of the report is to give an overview of the current state of knowledge "Microplastic pollution from Grimstad Klepp at the Consumption reduce production and replace the use of apparel in ways that reduce filter much of the microfibre load concerning microplastic pollution. It focuses on microplastic fibres from textiles. The and-labour-research/sifo/publications-from- textiles: A literature review" Research Norway - SIFO (a research consumption of clothing; b) synthetic fibers with microplastic pollution; invest in from effluent but the range of review is a part of a larger work towards better accounting for the use phase in LCA of SIFO/Microplastic-pollution-from-textiles-A-literature- insitute at Oslo and Akershus improve consumer practices in natural fibers where higher quality garments that shed effectiveness varies from apparel. It summarizes knowledge of which textiles and washing methods appear to review.pdf University College of Applied Sciences) the use phase of synthetic possible. less and are more durable and long- % offering significant scope for contribute more significantly, and discusses challenges of including the microfibre garments; and c) replace the lived; use front-loading washing reduction in amounts released problem in LCA studies of apparel and textiles. The report gives a preliminary use of synthetic fibres with machines and gentler cycles; less into the environment through synthesis of strategies to reduce pollution of microfibres in three main categories: 1. natural fibres where possible. frequent washes with milder improvements in lower-end Reducing production and consumption of clothing; 2. Improving consumer practices detergents; developing technology facilities. in the use phase of synthetic garments; and 3. Replace use of synthetic fibres with such as improved filters in washing natural fibres where possible. machines. 31 Various research projects and Dr. Mark Browne, Senior Research ongoing Research to identify significant articles on plastic debris, Associate, School of Biological, Earth sources of microplastics in including microplastics, from and Environmental Science, Australia society, the accumulation of different sources, including (m.browne@unsw.edu.au) microplastics on shorelines textiles worldwide, and their health and environmental impacts (from cellular level in organisms to ecosystem impacts). His research shows that the shores in Oceania, Asia, Africa, Europe, and North and South America are contaminated with microplastic (plastic debris < 1 mm), with more material in densely populated areas. The most probably source is found to be sewage contaminated by synthetic fibres from washing clothes. He has particularly looked at estuarine habitats as well as habitats down-wind and their accumulation of microplastic. Also, his work has shown how ingestion of plastics accumulate in the gut of filter-feeding invertebrates (mussels) and can translocate into the circulatory system and haemocytes where they persisted for months, as well as transfer pollutants and additives into organisms' tissues. 32 LAUNCH project: "Benign by Dr. Mark Browne, Senior Research ongoing? The aim of the project is to The project helps select The aim of the project is to enable Benign by Design will lead to cost-effective fabrics that emit fewer and less toxic Design" Associate, School of Biological, Earth enable consumers to purchase the most cost effective consumers to purchase less fibers via novel research on how fabrics compare throughout their life cycle. It shows and Environmental Science, Australia less hazardous fabrics that material with the smallest hazardous fabrics that shed fewer companies exactly how textile wear leads to fiber pollution and ways to control their (m.browne@unsw.edu.au) shed fewer potentially toxic impact; fabrics that emit potentially toxic fibers and chemicals emissions. It is a trade-off analysis system that selects the most cost effective fibers and chemicals fewer fibers and less toxic throughout their life cycle. material with the smallest impact; fabrics that emit fewer fibers and less toxic fibers. throughout their life cycle. fibers. The research will help reduce environmental and health impacts of fabrics, including a novel method of fiber quantification (³ 1 µm) in wastewater and animal tissues. 33 Research project: "A Sea of Docent Bethanie M Carney Almroth, ongoing? The project aims to analyse This project aims to answer the question: Are plastic particles toxic to fish? PPs are an Plastic: Are plastic particles Universitetslektor, Institutionen för toxicity impacts of emerging pollutant and as such, knowledge concerning toxicity is lacking but &x=230&y=0; toxic to fish?" (FORMAS) biologi och miljövetenskap, Göteborgs microplastics on fish necessary. Knowledge of the fate of PPs in fish will aid in understanding the fate of Universitet, (knowledge for preventative PPs in the natural environment and therefore be useful in determining actions to e/a-sea-of-plastic--are-plastic-particles-toxic-to-fish- (bethanie.carney@bioenv.gu.se) measures). minimize negative impact. 34 Research Article: "Quantifying Lead author: Bethanie M. Carney Published 2018 The study reveals that The study recommends pre- The study recommends pre- The study compares washing of The amount of microfibers shedding from synthetic textiles was measured for three Open source: shedding of synthetic fibers Almroth, Göteborgs Universitet, loose textile constructions washing and vacuum cleaning washing and vacuum cleaning polyester, acrylic and nylon textiles. materials (acrylic, nylon, polyester), knit using different gauges and techniques. All from textiles; a source of shed more than tightly of fabrics at the production of fabrics at the production It recommends more efficient textiles were found to shed, but polyester fleece fabrics shed the greatest amounts, pdf; microplastics released into the (bethanie.carney@bioenv.gu.se) twisted yarns. Polyester sites (factories). sites (factories). washing machine filters in averaging 7360 fibers/m 2 /L 1 in one wash, compared with polyester fabrics which environment" fleece fabrics were found households. shed 87 fibers/m 2 /L 1. The study found that loose textile constructions shed more, to shed the greatest as did worn fabrics, and high twist yarns are to be preferred for shed reduction. The amounts. It recommends study suggests that smarter textile construction, prewashing and vacuum exhaustion smarter textile at production sites, and use of more efficient filters in household washing machines, construction. could help mitigate this problem. 35 Numerous research projects, Prof. Richard Thompson and his The study compares the The study investigates the release of The International Marine Litter Research Unit has a mission to further our e.g. "Distinguishing the research team at the International release of synthetic synthetic microplastic fibres from understanding of the impacts of litter on the environment and society, and to identify realistic environmental risks of Marine Litter Research Unit, Plymouth microplastic fibres during domestic washing machines, as well the solutions and pathways necessary to achieve them. In 2004, the research team nanoplastics by investigating University, UK household washing from as effects of fabric type and washing was the first to reveal the widespread occurrence of microscopic particles of plastic fate and toxicology in real- different types of fabrics. conditions. debris at the sea surface and on shorelines pieces which we described as world scenarios microplastics. In 2016, Thompson and Napper co-authored the article "Release of (RealRiskNano)" synthetic microplastic fibres from domestic washing machines: Effects of fabric type and washing conditions", published in Marine Pollution Bulletin (2016, Nov 15). 36 Review article: "Synthetic Lead author: Flavia Salvador Cesa, The study addresses consumption of The study emphasizes the lack of Studies that reveal domestic washing as microplastic sources are scarce and there is a Pdf available upon purchase: fibers as microplastics in the University of São Paulo, School of synthetic textiles, and advocates the information on the coverage and considerable lack of standardization in methods as well as incorporation of textile marine environment: A review Arts, Sciences and Humanities, Brazil need for more effective designs of efficiency of sewage treatment aspects in experimental design. Knowledge gaps include laundry parameters (e.g., ; from textile perspective with a household washing machines. It also systems to remove textile fibers, water temperature, use of chemicals) and textile articles characteristics (e.g., yarn focus on domestic washings" raises the need for more knowledge which prevents a global type, fabric structure) orchestrated by consumers' choice. The lack of information on on laundry parameters (e.g. water understanding of such sources. the coverage and efficiency of sewage treatment systems to remove textile fibers temperature and use of chemicals) also prevent a global understanding of such sources. The search of alternatives and to assess microplastic release during applicable solutions should come from an integrated, synergic and global perspective, washing. of both environmental and textile area, which still need to be fostered. Sida 4 av 6

8 37 Research article: "Evaluation First author: Francesca De Falco, The study measures and compares The objective was to investigate the role of washing processes of synthetic textiles on Pdf available upon purchase: of microplastic release caused Institute for Polymers, Composites the release of microplastics from microplastic release. Washing water filtration and scanning electron microscopy were by textile washing processes and Biomaterials, Italian National washing of woven polyester, knitted used. Microfibre shedding from three different synthetic fabric types (woven #! of synthetic fabrics" Research Council, NA, Italy. polyester, and woven polypropylene. polyester, knitted polyester, and woven polypropylene) during washing trials was Woven polyester here released the measured and analysed. Highest microplastic release was recorded for woven most. The study also compares polyester wash, and hence correlated to fabric characteristics. A comparison was also different fabrics, detergents, made of microfibre release from woven polyester fabrics for different detergents, softener usage, etc. Softener usage washing parameters and industrial washes. A typical 5 kg wash load of polyester reduced microfibre release. fabrics was estimated to release over 6,000,000 microfibers depending on type of detergent. Softener used reduced microfibres release by more than 35%. 38 Research project: "Modeling Prof. Dr. Bernd Nowack, Empa, ongoing? Modeling different flows of Modelling impacts The main goal of this project is to develop a material flow model that will describe the the Flows of Plastics and Technology & Society Laboratory, microplastics into the on freshwater flows of different microplastics to the environment, using data on plastic production ect=true Microplastics into the Gallen, Switzerland environment systems in and use as main input and considering the life-cycle of products. The different plastics environment" (nowack@empa.ch) Switzerland and of interest for this project are the ones that are most used: PE (polyethylene), PP Europe. (polypropylene), PS (polystyrene) and PET (polyethylene terephtalate). In a first step a material flow model for the various plastics will be developed and the microplastics release to the environment will be quantified in a second step. The model will then be regionalized and environmental concentrations will be calculated for the Swiss and European freshwater systems. The model will be calibrated and refined using available measurements of microplastics in freshwaters. 39 Research project: Prof. Dr. Bernd Nowack, Empa, ongoing Research on fiber Research on fabric construction Release of microplastic fibers from This systematic study provides quantitative data regarding the size and mass of "Microplastic release from Technology & Society Laboratory, construction and its and its significance for polyester textiles during washing. microplastic fibers released from synthetic (polyester) textiles during washing under textiles" Gallen, Switzerland significance for microplastic fiber release. controlled laboratory conditions. (nowack@empa.ch) microplastic fiber release. 40 Research article: "Polyester Prof. Dr. B. Nowack, E Hernandez and Recommends investigating yarn This study analyses how washing The study provides quantitative data regarding the size and mass of microplastic Pdf available: Textiles as a Source of Denise Mitrano. The last (lead) author spinning and its significance on detergents, water temperature, and fibers released from synthetic (polyester) textiles during simulated home washing 199/Hernandez%20(2017).pdf. Microplastics from from Eawag, Swiss Federal Institute microfiber release during the number and length of wash under controlled laboratory conditions. Consideration of fabric structure and washing Households: A Mechanistic for Aquatic Science and Technology, washing. cycles affect the release of conditions (use of detergents, temperature, wash duration, and sequential washings) (Source: Environ. Sci. Technol., 2017, 51 (12), pp Study to Understand Process Engineering, Switzerland microfibers from synthetic allowed them to study the propensity of fiber shedding in a mechanistic way ) Microfiber Release During (polyester) textiles during simulated Thousands of individual fibers were measured (number, length) from each wash Washing" home washing. Fabric structure was solution to provide a robust data set on which to draw conclusions. Among all the also considered. The actual use of variables tested, the use of detergent appeared to affect the total mass of fibers detergent appeared to affect the released the most, yet the detergent composition (liquid or powder) or overdosing of total mass of fibers released the detergent did not significantly influence microplastic release. most. 41 Research article: "Exports of Max Siegfried et al., Water Systems A global modelling approach to Europe Quantifying the transport of plastic debris from river to sea is crucial for assessing the microplastics from land to sea. and Change Group, analyse the composition and risks of plastic debris to human health and the environment. We present a global A modelling approach" Wageningen University & Research, quantities of microplastic modelling approach to analyse the composition and quantity of point-source Wageningen, The Netherlands fluxes from European rivers to microplastic fluxes from European rivers to the sea. The model accounts for different the sea. types and sources of microplastics entering river systems via point sources. We combine information on these sources with information on sewage management and plastic retention during river transport for the largest European rivers. Sources of microplastics include personal care products, laundry, household dust and tyre and road wear particles (TRWP). Most of the modelled microplastics exported by rivers to seas are synthetic polymers from TRWP (42%) and plastic-based textiles abraded during laundry (29%). Smaller sources are synthetic polymers and plastic fibres in household dust (19%) and microbeads in personal care products (10%). Microplastic export differs largely among European rivers, as a result of differences in socioeconomic development and technological status of sewage treatment facilities. 42 Research article: Alice A. Horton et al, Centre for The study raises concern about The aim of this review is to synthesise available information relevant to Full pdf available: "Microplastics in freshwater Hydrology and Ecology, Wallingford, how microplastics and understanding microplastics behaviour, fate and ecological effects within freshwater and terrestrial environments: UK (alihort@ceh.ac.uk) microfibres are retained in environments and soils. The review draws primarily on the published literature roplastics_in_freshwater_and_terrestrial_environments_ev Evaluating the current sewage sludge, and hereafter (in available from freshwater and the relatively few terrestrial microplastic studies aluating_the_current_understanding_to_identify_the_kno understanding to identify the many European countries) published to date. An issue of concern mentioned in the article is the presence of wledge_gaps_and_future_research_priorities knowledge gaps and future applied to arable land, where microfibres in sewage sludge, which in many European countries is applied to arable research priorities" they may accumulate in the soil land. Despite regulations on harmful substances within sludge applied to land, over decades or more. microplastics are not yet considered by these and thus the mass of microplastics inadvertently applied to land annually may exceed 400,000 tonnes higher than the mass currently estimated to be present in oceanic surface waters worldwide. In some field sites, synthetic microfibres were found 15 years after the last sludge application. This suggests that microplastics and synthetic fibres are likely to accumulate in soils after repeated sludge applications. The study estimates the annual plastic release to land to be 4 23 times greater than that released to oceans. (In Science of the Total Environment ) 43 Research article: "Sources and Karolina Szewc, et al., Department of fate of microplastics in marine Marine Chemistry and Environmental and beach sediments of the Protection, Institute of Oceanography, Southern Baltic Sea a University of Gdansk, Poland preliminary study" (karolina.szewc@phdstud.ug.edu.pl) The study investigates the occurrence of microplastics, including microfibers (of polyester etc), in beach and marine sediments of the Southern Baltic Sea. The study suggests that the concentrations of low density plastic debris may be underestimated, as these polymers probably recirculates between beach sediments and seawater to a greater extent than higher density plastics. Southern Baltic Sea The study investigates microplastics sources and fate in marine bottom and beach sediments in the Baltic Sea. Microplastics were extracted using sodium chloride (1.2 g 5 cm 3). Their qualitative identification was conducted using micro-fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (μft-ir). Concentration of microplastics varied from 25 particles kg 1 d.w. at the open sea beach to 53 particles kg 1 d.w. at beaches of strongly urbanized bay. In bottom sediments, microplastics concentration was visibly lower compared to beach sediments (0 27 particles kg 1 d.w.) and decreased from the shore to the open, deep-sea regions. The most frequent microplastics dimensions ranged from 0.1 to 2.0 mm, and transparent fibers were predominant. Polyester, which is a popular fabrics component, was the most common type of microplastic in both marine bottom (50%) and beach sediments (27%). Additionally, poly(vinyl acetate) used in shipbuilding as well as poly(ethylene-propylene) used for packaging were numerous in marine bottom (25% of all polymers) and beach sediments (18% of all polymers). (In Environmental Science and Pollution Research ) 44 Research article: "Release of Sillanpää M and Sainio P., Finish The study analyses The study analyses microfiber The objective of this study is to quantify the number and mass of two of the most polyester and cotton fibers Environment Institute, Finland microfiber release during release during washing, comparing common textile fibers discharged from sequential machine washings to sewers. ease_of_polyester_and_cotton_fibers_from_textiles_in_m from textiles in machine washing, comparing polyster and cotton fabrics. Amounts of released microfibers showed a decreasing trend in sequential washes. achine_washings washings" polyster and cotton Due to the high emission values and sorption capacities, the polyester and cotton fabrics. microfibers may play an important role in the transport and fate of chemical pollutants in the aquatic environment. (Article in Environmental Science and Pollution Research) Sida 5 av 6