AUTHOR THANKS. Anna Kaminski Many thanks to my fellow authors, Becky and Kari, and our esteemed editors, Maryanne,

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 363 SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Beata Andorka, Patrik Aqvist, Kevin Campbell, Marco Di Pauli, Alessandra Furlan, Mikhail Grozovski, Ellen IJspeert, Kirk Johnson, Marie Lambert, Sophia Lambert, Jonathan May, Jeff Moritz, Hugo Nilsson, Bas and Annemarie Oosterkamp, Vic Sofras, Anders Thorsell, Jan Willem van Hofwegen, Guy Voets, Frank Wiesemann AUTHOR THANKS Becky Ohlsen Thanks to my co-authors for all their help and hard work on the book; Mom for the excellent company and fresh perspective; Anno Superstar for the impromptu breakfast chat; Travis Gardner for the sweet mobile office; and friends Mike Russell, Jennifer Spratly, Margo DeBeir, Matthew Stearns, Mats Sjöberg and Gunnel Nordlund. Anna Kaminski Many thanks to my fellow authors, Becky and Kari, and our esteemed editors, Maryanne, Glenn and Katie. I m particularly grateful to Fredrik and Louise for the pre-trip advice; to Katja (Nutti Sami Siida), Tom and Lotta (Båtsuoj Sami Camp) and Lennart (Visit Sápmi) for the inspiration; and to Erik, Amelie and the Stormtrooper (Gävle), Ali, Hendrik and Marcus (Luleå), Johann (Kiruna), Akshey (Kungsleden), Katja (Östersund) and Papa Fahr Out (Stockholm) for the hospitality, advice and companionship on the road. K Lundgren Thanks to Ursula Elvegard, Mats Nordstrom, Ragnar Oloffson, Annika Axelsson, Jannike Ahlund, Nina Peri, Brian Murphy, Reidun Lundgren and Stig the Hållö ferryman. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Red timber house on Tjörn on the west coast of Sweden; DJS/Imagebroker. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images:

2 364 This Book This 5th edition of Lonely Planet s Sweden guidebook was researched and written by Becky Ohlsen, K Lundgren and Anna Kaminski. Stuart Harrison wrote the Design & Architecture chapter, and the History chapter was compiled with the assistance of Nicolas Kinloch. The previous edition was written by Becky Ohlsen and Cristian Bonetto. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editors Katie O Connell, Glenn van der Knijff Coordinating Editors Victoria Harrison, Asha Ioculari Coordinating Cartographer Valeska Canas Coordinating Layout Designer Sandra Helou Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawlings Managing Cartographer Alison Lyall Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Senior Editor Susan Paterson Assisting Editors Holly Alexander, Emma Gilmour, Kim Hutchins, Karyn Noble, Charlotte Orr, Ross Taylor Assisting Cartographers Jane Chapman, Mark Griffiths Cover Research Jessica Boland Internal Image Research Sabrina Dalbesio, Naomi Parker, Rebecca Skinner Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Ryan Evans, Yvonne Kirk, Gerard Walker, Kathleen Munnelly, Maryanne Netto, Trent Paton

3 A ABBA 68-9, 74, 79, 232, 246, 335 tours 74 Abisko Abisko National Park 30, 42, 306-8, 19 accommodation , see also individual locations language 16, activities 37-42, 256, see also individual activities Age of Liberty 322 Aguéli, Ivan 122 air travel to/from Sweden 349 within Sweden 352 Ájtte Museum 297 Ales Stenar 206 allemansrätten 41 Alntorps Island 124 Alnö Gamla Kyrka 278 Ammarnäs 294 amusement parks Astrid Lindgrens Värld 248 Folkets Park 187 Furuvik Gröna Lund Tivoli 64-5 Junibacken 64 Liseberg 146 Parken Zoo 117 Universeum 150 Ölands Djurpark 252 ancestry 318 Andersson, Roy 333 Andrée, Salomon August 234 Aquaria Vattenmuseum 65-6 aquariums Aquaria Vattenmuseum 65-6 Havets Hus 167 Malmö Museer 186 Sjöfartsmuseet Skansen Aquarium Map pages 000 Photo pages aquavit, see snaps Arbetets Museum 223 archaeological sites Anundshög 120 Eketorp 253 Gamla Uppsala 109 Norrköping 224 Sigurd carving stone ship settings architects Asplund, Erik Gunnar 62, 71, 331 Lewerentz, Sigurd 331 Tessin, Nicodemus 55, 60, 70, 71, 95, 96, 104, 330 Utzon, Kim 210 architecture 8, 66, Arctic Circle 328 area codes 15, 346 Arholma 100 Arild 215 Arjeplog 296 Arkitekturmuseet 66 Armémuseum 61 art galleries Aguélimuseet 122 Axel Ebbe Konsthall 201 Bildmuséet (Umeå) 283 Carl Larssons Porträttsamling 134 Dalslands Museum & Konsthall 173 Döderhultarmuseet 245 Dunkers Kulturhus 210 Ebelingmuseet 118 Eskilstuna Konstmuseum 118 Form/Design Center 187 Färgfabriken Norr 266 Halmstads Museum 178 Höganäs Museum & Konsthall 214 Jönköpings Länsmuseum 232 Konstmuseum (Norrköping) 223 Konstmuseum (Västerås) 119 Kvarnbydagen 153 Kvarteret Bryggeriet 123 Liljevalchs Konsthall 66 Länsmuseum & Konsthall 126 Magasin 3 67 Mjellby Konstmuseum 178 Museum Leonardo da Vinci Ideale 218 Nordiska Akvarellmuseet 166 Röda Sten 147 Sami Duodji 297 Skissernas Museum 197 Skånes Konstförening 187 Thielska Galleriet 64 VIDA Museum & Konsthall 251 Västmanlands Länsmuseum 119 Växjö Konsthall 238 Ystads Konstmuseum 202 Östergötlands Länsmuseum 228 Arvidsjaur Askersund assassinations 323 Astrid Lindgrens Näs 248 Astrid Lindgrens Värld 248 ATMs 17, 345 Atoklimpen 293 aurora borealis 307-8, 328 Axel Ebbe Konsthall 201 Axelsson, Annika 160 B bathrooms 347 Bauer, John 232 beaches Falsterbo 200 Hornsdalet Archipelago 278 Trosa 67 Utö 102 Öland Östersund 267 Bergman, Ingmar 261, 262, 333, 334 Bergman, Ingrid 11, 169 Bergs Slussar 229 Bernadotte, Jean-Baptiste 322 Bildmuséet (Umeå) 283 Biologiska Museet 65 birds 327 birdwatching 42, 327 books 327 Måkläppen 200 Tåkern Nature Reserve 232 Birger Ladulås 319 Black Death 54, 319, 320 Blekinge Blåvägen 292 boat cruises 19, see also boating, canoeing Fjällbacka 170 Gävle 275 Göteborg 154 Jönköping 232 Karlskrona 218 Karlstad 130 Koster Islands 171 Kristianstad 208 Linköping 228 Lysekil 167 Malmö 189 Southern Archipelago (Göteborg) 164 Stockholm Archipelago Storsjön 266, 267 Sunne 131 Trosa 67 Uppsala 112 Visingsö 235 Västervik

4 366 INDEX B-C boat travel, see also boat cruises, boating, canoeing, ferry travel, kayaking, sailing to/from Sweden within Sweden boating 39 allemansrätten 41 Göteborg 154 Malmö 189 Stockholm 72 Boden 285 Bohus Fästning 165 Bohuslän Bohuslän Coast 11, , 11, 40 Bohusläns Museum 170 books 314, birdwatching 327 history 319 photography 329 border crossings Borgholm Bothnian Coast 47, , 265 Bronze Age 318 brown bears 326, 327 Brändöskär 286 Brännö budgeting 14-15, 36, 51, 60, 147 Burgsvik 263 burial sites Gettlinge 253 Kiviksgraven 207 Mysinge 253 Skogskyrkogården 71 Sollerön 138 bus travel to/from Sweden 350, 351 within Sweden 353 business hours 342 Båtsuoj Sami Camp 296 Bäckman, Camilla 261 Bärnstensmuseum 199 C calvados 200 camping 34, 41 canoeing 41, see also boat cruises, boating Grövelsjön 143 Idre 143 Stockholm 72 Sälen 142 Tiveden National Park 128 Torsby 132 Uppsala Map pages 000 Photo pages Carlsson, Sven-Åke 245 Carlstens Fästning 164 car museums Fordonsmuseum 132 Saab Bilmuseum Volvo Museum Österlens Motor & Teknikmuseum 206 car travel 15, 354 see also border crossings hire 353 language 360 organisations 353 rules 354 to/from Sweden 350, 351 within Stockholm 94 within Sweden Carl Larsson-gården 134 Carl Larssons Porträttsamling 134 castles & forts Bohus Fästning 165 Borgholms Slott 250 Carlstens Fästning 164 Drottningholms Slott 95-6, 324 Drottningskärs Kastell 218 Ekenäs Slott 228 Glimmingehus 207 Gripsholm Slott 105 Gråborg 252 Ismantorp fortress 252 Kalmar Slott 240 Karlsborgs Fästning Kärnan 210 Kastelholm 99 Kina Slott 97 Kungliga Slottet 55-6 Kungsholms Fort 216 Läckö Slott 176 Malmöhus Slott Medieval Fortress (Varberg) 181 Nya Älvsborgs Fästning 151 Nyköpingshus 116 Rosendals Slott 65 Rosersbergs Slott 104 Skokloster Slott 104 Slottet (Örebro) Steninge Slott 104 Trelleborgen Ulriksdals Slott 71 Uppsala Slott Vadstena Slott 230 Vaxholm Kastell 98 Örbyhus Slott 115 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals caving 215 cell phones 15, Celsing, Peter 332 Celsius, Anders 322 cemeteries, see burial sites central Sweden 45, , 108 highlights 108 national parks 329 Charlotte Berlins Museum 202 chefs Andersson, Melker 19, 83, 86, 87 Danyel Couet 83, 87 Dahlgren, Mathias 19, 82 Fransson, Karin 251 Lallerstedt, Erik 84 Nordström, Mats 157, 166, 167 Samuelsson, Marcus 77 child care 316 children, travel with 43-4, see also amusement parks Astrid Lindgrens Näs 248 Astrid Lindgrens Värld 248 Fyrishov 112 Leksaksmuseet 70 Stockholm 65 Valla Fritidsområde 227 Christianity 319 churches & cathedrals Amiralitetskyrkan 218 Domkyrka (Linköping) Domkyrkan (Göteborg) 152 Domkyrkan (Lund) 196 Domkyrkan (Uppsala) 110 Gärdslösa kyrka 251 Hagakyrkan 152 Husaby Kyrka & St Sigfrid s Well Klosterkyrkan 230 Leksands Kyrka 136 Mariakyrkan Masthuggskyrkan 152 Riddarholmskyrkan 59 Sankt Petri Kyrka 186 Sankta Maria kyrka (Visby) 257 Sankta Maria Kyrka (Ystad) 202 St Karins Kyrka Storkyrkan Trefaldighetskyrkan 208 Väversunda kyrka cider 200, 207 Cineteket 204 climate 14, 326 Göteborg 144 Kiruna 290 Malmö 183 Stockholm 50 Sundsvall 264 Uppsala 107 Visby 221 consulates 343, 344 costs 316, see also budgeting, money

5 crafts Dala horse 141 Sami Duodji 297, crayfish parties, see kräftskivor credit cards 17, 345 crime fiction 334 cultural stereotypes 315 culture dragons 279 Gävle goat 273 hyttsill parties 243 kräftskivor 23, 33 tattoos 276 Curman, Carl 167 currency 14 customs regulations cycling 19, 38-9, 352, see also mountain biking Göteborg 153 language 360 Malmö 190 Siljansleden 136 Skurugata Nature Reserve 237 Stockholm 72 Tiveden National Park 128 D Dag Hammarskjölds Backåkra 205 Dala horse 141 Dalarna Dalarnas Museum 135 Dalhem 260 Dalsland Dalslands Museum & Konsthall 173 dangers 354 Dansmuseet 62-3 DEM Collective 160 design 20, 91, Swedish Designers 91 Form/Design Center 187 Glasriket 10, 243-5, 10 Göteborg 146 Hen & Villa 24 Ikea 91 internet resources 330 Kulturnatt 153 Malmö 185 Mölndals Museum 153 Röda Sten 147 Röhsska Museet Stockholm 331 disabilities, travellers with 347 discount cards 60, 147, 187 diving 215, 281 Djurgården 62-6, 62 dogsledding 18, 20, 42, 297, 12, 40 Arvidsjaur 295 Idre 143 Jokkmokk 297 Jukkasjärvi 306 Kiruna 302 Torsby 133 Åre 270 Domkyrkan (Lund) 196 dragons 279 drinking 31-6 Absolut Vodka distillery 210 calvados 200 cider 200, 207 language Mackmyra Svensk Whisky & Whiskyby 273 snaps 32, 34, 35, 65 Systembolaget 36 water 51 Drottens Arkeologiska Museum 197 Drottningholm Drottningholms Slott 95-6, 324 Drottningholms Slottsteater & Teatermuseum 96-7 Drottningskärs Kastell 218 Dunkers Kulturhus 210 Döderhultarmuseet 245 E eastern Gotland Ebbe, Axel 201 Ebeling, Allan 118 economy 314, 315 eels 186, 210 Ekenäs Slott 228 Ekerö 100 Eksjö electricity 343 elk 243, 266, 326 Moose Garden 266 Mountain Moose Moosepark 292 Vittangi Moose Farm 304 Vänersborg 174 Älgens Hus 283 embassies 343, 344 emergencies 15, 359 emigration 318, 322 festivals 237 monuments 220 museums 238 Engström, Albert 236 Enquis, Per Olov 334 environmental issues 329 allemansrätten 41 biofuels 226 climate change 350 drinking water 51 endangered species 326, 327 hiking 39 overfishing 327 pollution 327 Erik XIII (of Pomerania) 320 Erik XIV 321 Erskine, Ralph 331 Eskilstuna ethnicity 318, 324 etiquette 17, 314, 315 Etnografiska Museet 66 events 21-5, see also festivals exchange rates 15 F Falsterbo Falsterbo Peninsula Falun far north, the 47, 290, 291 accommodation 290 food 290 Fatmomakke 292 ferry travel, see also boat cruises, boat travel, canoeing, kayaking to/from Sweden within Sweden 353 festivals 21-4, see also events Bergman Week 262 Göteborg International Film Festival 154 Hultsfredsfestivalen 230 Karl Oscar Days 237 Kiruna Snow Festival 303 Kulturnatt 153 Medeltidsveckan Midsummer 22, 23 Pajala Fair 310 Römppäviiko 311 Stockholm Pride 23, 74, 23 Storsjöyran 267 VisFestivalen 246 films 314, 333 festivals 21, 154 Cineteket 204 Finnhamn 100 fish fishing 41 Kullaberg Nature Reserve 215 Tiveden National Park 128 Fiskebäckskil 167 Fjällbacka folkhemmet food 8, 19, 31-6, 343, 33, see also individual locations etiquette 34 festivals 32 kräftskivor 23, 33 Kvarteret Knäppingsborg 223 language Sånninggården 294 self-catering 84 slow food 157 tipping 17, 36, INDEX C-F

6 368 INDEX F-H food continued truffles 261 vegan 36 vegetarian 36 Form/Design Center 187 Fornminnesgårdens Museum 236 Forsmark 116 forts, see castles & forts Foteviken Viking Reserve , 318 Fotografiska 68-9 Fredriksdal 212 Fredriksdals Friluftsmuseum 212 Friluftsmuséet 283 Frösön 266 fun parks, see amusement parks Funäsdalen Fårö 11, 261-2, 10 Färgfabriken Norr 266 Färnebofjärden National Park 275 G Galterö 163 Gamla Linköping 227 Gamla Uppsala 109 Gammlia 283 gatukök 36 gay travellers Stockholm 74, 88 Genberg, Mikael 119 geneology 318 geography 325 geology Gettlinge 253 global financial crisis 315 Glasriket 10, 243-5, 10 glass 10, 243, 244 glassworks Gullaskruv Kosta 243 Nybro 244 Orrefors 244 Glimmingehus 207 Glösa 268 golden eagle 327 golf 42 Gothenburg, see Göteborg Gotland 11, 46, , 254 eastern Gotland history of 258 northern Gotland southern Gotland 262 Gotlands Museum Map pages 000 Photo pages Gotska Sandön National Park Gränna Great Lake, see Storsjön Gripsholm Slott 105 Gråborg 252 Gränna Museum: Andréexpedition Polarcenter 234 Grönklitt 142 Grövelsjön 143 Gullaskruv Gustav II Adolf 321 Gustav III 322, 323 Gustav IV Adolf 322 Gällivare Gävle , 274 Gävle goat 273 Göta Canal 229 Göteborg 9, 46, , 148, 149, 9 accommodation activities climate 144 drinking 159 entertainment events 154 festivals 154 food 144, highlights 145 history 146 information 161 itineraries 27, 27 planning 144, 147 shopping sights tours 154 travel to/from travel within Göteborg Pass 147 H Halland Hallwylska Museet 61 Halmstad , 180 Halmstad Group 178 Hammarskjölds, Dag 205 Haparanda 289 Harrison, Stuart 330 Helagsfjället 271 Helsingborg , , 211 Hemavan Hembygdsgård (Vaxholm) 98 Hembygdsgård Gammelgård 139, 23 Hemse 263 herrings 166 hiking 6, 18, 37-8, 39, 7 allemansrätten 41 environmental issues 39 Finnskogleden 133 Helagsfjället 271 Hemavan 293 Höga Kusten Leden 280, 282 Kungsleden 271-2, Kvikkjokk 299 Laisaleden Trail 293 Laxfjället 293 Padjelantaleden Ramundberget 271 responsible travel 39 Rogen Nature Reserve 272 safety 38 Sarek National Park 299 Siljansleden 136 Skurugata Nature Reserve 237 southern Kungsleden Stora Sjöfallet National Park 299 Storlien 271 Sälen Åre Hindersön 286 historic buildings Bonnstan 285 Gammelstad Krapperups Slott 214 Kronhuset (Göteborg) 153 Munthe s Hildasholm 136 Riksdagshuset 58 Rörstrand Center 176 Stadshuset 61, 28 Historiska Museet 61 Historiska Museet (Lund) 197 history architectural books 319 Göteborg 146 Malmö 185 Stockholm 54 hitching 354 Hjorth, Bror 112 holidays 21-2, 25, 346, see also festivals, events Holm, Åke 214 Holmön 283 Hornsdalet Archipelago 278 horse riding 42 Kullaberg 215 Tiveden National Park 128 Hotell Gästis 182 Hudiksvall Huskvarna Husqvarna Fabriksmuseum 232 Hållö 168 Håverud Hälsinglands Museum 276 Härjedalen Härjedalens Fjällmuseum 271 Härnösand 280

7 Höga Kusten Höga Kusten Leden 280, 282 Höga Kustenbron, 280 Höganäs Högbonden 281, 282 I ice age 318 ice hockey 90, 160, 282 ice skating, see skating Icehotel 306, 331 Idre 143 Ikea 91, 332 immigration , 349 indoor climbing 72, see also rock climbing industrial sites Engelsberg Bruk 123 Forsmark 116 Industrilandskapet 223 Lövstabruk Mackmyra Svensk Whisky & Whiskyby 273 Silvermuseet 296 Smygehuk 202 Österbybruk 115 industrialisation 322 Inlandsbanan 13, 294, 355, 13 Innovatum Science Center insurance 344 internet access internet resources 15, 35, 51, 330, 336 Iron Age 318 Ismantorp fortress 252 itineraries 26-30, 26, 27, 29 J Jamtli 266 Jarl, Birger 319 jazz 22, 24, 333 Johan III 321 Johan, Karl 322 Jokkmokk Jokkmokk Historical Market 298 Jonasson, Mats 245 Jukkasjärvi Junibacken 64 Jämtland Järvso 277 Jönköping 232-4, 233 K Kaarevaara 310 Kaknästornet 67 Kalmar , 240 Kamprad, Ingvar 332 Kapellskär 102 Karesuando Karlsborg Karlshamn 220 Karlskrona , 217 Karlstad Karl XII, King 321-2, 323 Kastelholm 99 Katarinahissen 70 kayaking 41, see also boat cruises, boating, canoeing Kebnekaise 305, 316 Kina Slott 97 Kingdom of Crystal 10, 243-5, 10 Kinnekulle Kiruna 301-5, 303 climate 290 itineraries 29, 29 Kiruna Snow Festival 303 Kivik 207 Kiviksgraven 207 Klostret i Ystad 202 Kluntarna 286 Klädesholmen 166 Konstmuseet (Göteborg) 147 Konstmuseum (Norrköping) 223 Konstmuseum (Västerås) 119 Kosta Koster Islands 171 Kristianstad , 209 Kristina, Queen 320, 321 kräftskivor 23, 33 Kukkolaforsen 288 Kulla Peninsula Kulturen (Lund) Kulturnatt 153 Kungajaktmuseet Älgens Berg 174 Kungliga Myntkabinettet 60 Kungliga Slottet 55-6 Kungsholms Fort 216 Kungsleden 271-2, 305, Kvarnbydagen 153 Kvarteret Bryggeriet 123 Kvikkjokk 299 Käringön 168 Kärnan 210 Köpstadsö 164 L Ladulås, King Magnus 319 Lagerlöf, Selma 131, 135 Lake Monster, see Storsjöodjuret Lake Siljan region landskap 325 Langhammarshammaren 261 language 14, 16, Laponia 305 Lappland 12, 47, 290, 291 accommodation 290 food 290 national parks 329 Larsson, Carl Larsson, Stieg 333, 334 Laxfjället 293 legal issues 41, 345 Leksaksmuseet 70 Leksand lemmings lesbian travellers Stockholm 74, 88 libraries Carolina Rediviva 111 Kulturhuset 62-3 Stadsbiblioteket 62-3 Lidköping lighthouses 169 Fårö 262 Gotland 169 Gotska Sandön 262 Hållö 168, 169 Högbonden 281 Kullaberg Nature Reserve 215 Luleå 286 Långe Jan 253 Smygehuk 202 Vinga 164 Västra Götaland 169 Liljevalchs Konsthall 66 Limön Lindgren, Astrid 64, 247-8, 335 Lindh, Anna 323 Lindqvist, Sven 334 Linköping , 227 Linnémuseet literature Livrustkammaren 59 LKAB Iron-Ore Mine 302 Louis de Geer Konserthus 223 Luleå 286-9, 287 Luleå Archipelago 286 Lund 196-9, 196 Lundstrom, Johan Edvard 322 lynxes 326 Lysekil Läckö Slott 176 län 325 Länsmuseet Västernorrland 280 Länsmuseum & Konsthall 126 Länsmuseum Gävleborg 273 Löderups Strandbad Lövstabruk M Magasin 3 67 Malmö 46, , 332, accommodation INDEX H-M

8 370 INDEX M Malmö continued activities 187, 189, 190 climate 183 drinking 193 entertainment events 191 festivals 191 food 183, highlights 184 history 185 information 194 itineraries 29, 29 planning 183, 187 shopping 194 sights tours travel to/from travel within 195 Malmö Chokladfabrik 187 Malmö Konsthall Malmö Museer 186 Malmöhus Slott Malmökortet 187 Mankell, Henning 202, 334 maps 345 Mariefred Mariehamn 99 marine animals maritime museums Blekinge Museum 218 Kalmar Sjöfartsmuseum 240 Marinmuseum 218 Maritiman 147 Stadsmuseum 147 Marstrand 164 measures 341 Medelhavsmuseet 61-2 Medeltidsmuseet 60 medieval festivals 22 Medieval Fortress (Varberg) 181 midnight sun 302, 328 Midsummer 22, 23 Millesgården 71 mines Falu Kopparbergsgruva 134 Gällivare 300 Kiruna 302 Sala Silvergruva 122 Utö Mjellby Konstmuseum 178 mobile phones 15, Moderna Museet 66 Moderna Museet Malmö 186 Mölle Map pages 000 Photo pages Mölndals Museum 153 money 14, 15, 17, 343, 345 monuments Utvandrar-monumentet 220 Mora motorcycle travel, see also border crossings language 360 organisations 353 rules 354 to/from Sweden 350, 351 within Stockholm 94 within Sweden mountain biking 42 Hemavan 293 Åre 269 mountaineering 38 Muddus National Park 301 Munsö 100 Munthe, Axel 136 Museum Gustavianum 111 Museum Leonardo da Vinci Ideale 218 museums, see also art galleries, car museums, industrial sites, maritime museums, open-air museums Ájtte Museum 297 Aquaria Vattenmuseum 65-6 Arbetets Museum 223 Arkitekturmuseet 66 Armémuseum 61 Astrid Lindgrens Näs 248 Biologiska museet 65 Bohusläns Museum 170 Bärnstensmuseum 199 Carl Larsson-gården 134 Charlotte Berlins Museum 202 Cineteket 204 Dag Hammarskjölds Backåkra 205 Dalarnas Museum 135 Dansmuseet 62-3 Drottens Arkeologiska Museum 197 Drottningholms Slottsteater & Teatermuseum 96-7 Etnografiska Museet 66 Fornminnesgårdens Museum 236 Fotografiska 68-9 Friluftsmuséet 283 Gamla Uppsala Museum 109 Gammlia 283 Gotlands Museum 257 Gränna Museum: Andréexpedition Polarcenter 234 Hallwylska Museet 61 Halmstad Äventyrsland 179 Hembygdsgård 98 Historiska Museet 61 Historiska Museet (Lund) 197 Husqvarna Fabriksmuseum 232 Hälsinglands Museum 276 Härjedalens Fjällmuseum 271 Inlandsbanemuseet 294 Innovatum Science Center Jamtli 266 Kalmar Länsmuseum 240 Karlshamns Kulturkvarter 220 Klostret i Ystad 202 Kungajaktmuseet Älgens Berg 174 Kungliga Myntkabinettet 60 Leksaksmuseet 70 Linnémuseet Livrustkammaren 59 Länsmuseet Västernorrland 280 Länsmuseum Gävleborg 273 Malmö Chokladfabrik 187 Malmö Konsthall Malmö Museer 186 Medelhavsmuseet 61-2 Medeltidsmuseet 60 Millesgården 71 Moderna Museet (Stockholm) 66 Moderna Museet Malmö 186 Museum Gustavianum 111 Mårbacka 131 Mölndals Museum 153 Nationalmuseum 60-1 Naturhistoriska Museet 150 Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet 71 Nobelmuseet 58 Nordiska Museet 64 Norrbottens Museum 287 Postmuseum 60 Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde 64 Radio Museum 232 Röhsska Museet Sancta Birgitta Klostermuseet 230 Silvermuseet 296 Skansen 62-3 Smålands Museum Spårvägsmuseet 70 Stadsmuseum 147 Stockholms Stadsmuseum 70-1 Strindbergsmuseet 62-3 Sundsbergs Gård 131 Sundsvall Museum 278 Sveriges Järnvägsmuseet 273 Teknikens Hus 287 Tekniska Museet 66 Tobaks & Tändsticksmuseum 63 Tändsticksmuseet 232 Universeum 150 Upplandsmuseet 111 Utvandrarnas Hus 238 Varberg Radio Station 181 Varldskulturmuseet 151 Vasaloppsmuseet 140 Vasamuseet 13, 63-4, 13

9 371 Vin & Sprithistoriska Museet 65 Vita Huset 310 Vänermuseet 176 Vänersborgs Museum 173 Värmlands Museum 129 Västerbottens Museum 283 Östasiatiska Museet 66 music 335, see also jazz music ABBA 68-9, 74, 79, 232, 246, 335 festivals 21, 22, 23, 24, 283 musk ox 327 Mysinge 253 Mårbacka 131 Mölndals Museum 153 N Närke national parks & nature reserves Abisko National Park 30, 42, 306-8, 19 Blå Jungfrun National Park 245 Dundret Färnebofjärden National Park 275 Getterön Nature Reserve 181 Gotska Sandön National Park Hunneberg & Hanneberg Nature Reserve 173 Högsbyn Nature Reserve Kullaberg Nature Reserve 215 Långfjällets Nature Reserve 143 Muddus National Park 301 Måkläppen 200 Padjelanta National Park Rogen Nature Reserve 272 Sarek National Park 299 Siljansnäs Naturum 137 Skuleskogen National Park 282 Skurugata Nature Reserve 237 southern Öland 253 Stenshuvud National Park 207-8, 7 Stora Alvaret 253 Stora Karlsö 260 Stora Sjöfallet National Park 299 Stångehuvud Nature Reserve 167 Tiveden National Park Tjärö 219 Tyresta National Park Tåkern Nature Reserve 232 Nationalmuseum 60-1 Naturhistoriska Museet 150 Naturhistoriska Riksmuseet 71 newspapers 341 Niemi, Mikael 334 Nikkaluokta 305 Nobel, Alfred 322 Nobel Prize 316 Nobelmuseet 58 Nora Nordiska Akvarellmuseet 166 Nordiska Museet 64 Norrbottens Museum 287 Norrköping 223-6, 224 northern lights, see aurora borealis northern Sweden Nya Älvsborgs Fästning 151 Nybro 244 Nyköping O Olofsson, Ragnor 261 open-air museums, see also archaeological sites Bungemuseet 261 Fredriksdals Friluftsmuseum 212 Friluftsmuseet Murberget 280 Friluftsmuséet 283 Foteviken Viking Reserve , 318 Gamla Linköping 227 Hembygdsgård Gammelgård 139, 23 Himmelsberga 252 Kulturen (Lund) Vallby Friluftsmuseum 119 opening hours 36, 342 Orrefors 244 Orsa 142 Orust 166 Oskarshamn outdoor activities 37-42, see also individual activites central Sweden 129 Kullaberg Nature Reserve 215 overfishing 327 P Padjelanta National Park Pajala Palme, Olof 323, 324 parks & gardens Botanical Gardens (Uppsala) 111 Botaniska Trädgården 152 Hagaparken 71 Jokkmokks Fjällträdgård 297 Keillers Park 152 Rottneros Park 131 Slottsskogsparken 152 Sofiero 212 Solliden Palace Stadsparken (Örebro) Trädgårdsföreningen 152 passports 348, 349 Petersson, Axel 245 phonecards 347 photography 329 Pippi Longstocking 335 planetariums Cosmonova 71 planning budgeting 14-15, 36, 51, 60, 147 calendar of events 21-5 children 43-4 discount cards 60, 147, 187 drinking 31-6 food 31-6 itineraries southern Sweden 183 Stockholm 50-1 Sweden s regions 45-7 travel seasons 14, 21 Polar Night 328 politics pollution 327 pop culture population 314, Porjus Postmuseum 60 postal services 346 post-wwii potteries 214, see also crafts Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde 64 public holidays 346 public transport 354, 360 R radio 341 Radio Museum 232 Rättvik skiing 139 refugees 316, 323 reindeer 326, 28 Långfjällets Nature Reserve 143 Sami culture 338 reindeer sledding 302 religion 315 Sami 337 responsible travel allemansrätten 41 hiking 39 Riddarholmskyrkan 59 Riksgränsen 308 Rikssvenska 356 Ritzman, Jan-Erik 245 rock carvings 165 Bohuslän 165 Glösa 268 Högsbyn Nature Reserve rock climbing 38 Rosendals Slott 65 Rosersbergs Slott 104 rune stones Källa kyrka 251 INDEX M-R

10 372 INDEX R-S Rökstenen 231 Uppsala 112 Röhsska Museet Röda Sten 147 Rödkallen 286 Rök 231 S safe travel 37, 38, sailing 39, see also boat cruises, boating Stockholm 72 Tjörn 166 Sala Sámediggi 337 Sami culture 20, Atoklimpen 293 Båtsuoj Sami Camp 296 clothing 337 Fatmomakke 292 festivals 21 flag 338 galleries 297 Härjedalens Fjällmuseum 271 internet resources 336 Jokkmokk Winter Market 298 language 336-7, 357 museums 280, 287, 297 reindeer 297, 338 religion 337 Sámiid Viessu 310 Visit Sápmi 300 yoik 336 Sami Duodji 297, Sancta Birgitta Klostermuseet 230 Sandön 101, 286 Sápmi 300, Sarek National Park 299 Scheele, Carl 322 seals 327 seasons 328, 338 senior travellers 343 shopping 20, 359 Dalahäst 141 Jokkmokk Winter Market 298 Superstar, Anno 90 Siaröfortet 100 Sigtuna Siljansleden 136 Silvermuseet 296 Simrishamn Skanör Skansen 62-3 skating Map pages 000 Photo pages Skellefteå Skeppsholmen 66, 78, 62 skiing 18, 41 allemansrätten 41 Fortum Ski Tunnel 133 Hemavan 293 Hovfjället 133 Idre 143 Mt Åreskutan 270 museums 140 Ramundberget 272 Riksgränsen 308 Rättvik 139 Storlien 271, 272 Sunne 131 Sälen 142 Tiveden National Park 128 Tänndalen 272 Tärnaby 293 Vasaloppet 140 Åre 270 Skillinge 207 Skissernas Museum 197 Skogskyrkogården 71 Skokloster Slott 104 Slottet (Örebro) Steninge Slott 104 Skuleberget cave 282 Skåne Skånes Konstförening 187 Slåtterdalskrevan 282 Smygehuk Småland Småskär 286 Smögen snaps 32, 34, 35, 65 snowmobile safaris 42, 270, 295 Social Democrats Sofiero 212 Sollerön 138 Sorsele 294 southeast Sweden 46, 221-3, 222 southern Sweden 46, highlights 184 national parks 329 southwest Sweden 46, , 145 highlights 145 Spårvägsmuseet 70 St Birgitta 230 Stadshuset 61, 28 steam trains Arvidsjaur 295 Dalhem 260 Pershyttan 123 Uppsala 112 Stenmark, Ingemar 293 Stenshuvud National Park 207-8, 7 Stockholm 6, 45, 50-96, 52-3, 56-7, 62, 68-9, 75, 96-7, 6-7 accommodation 50, activities 71-2 children, travel with 65 climate 50 drinking 86-7 entertainment festivals 74 food 50, 80-6 gay travellers 74, 88 history 54 information 92-3 itineraries 26, 29, 55, 26 lesbian travellers 74, 88 opening hours 51 shopping 90-2 sights tours 72-4 travel to/from 93 travel within 94-5 walking tour 73, 73 Stockholm Archipelago 10, Stockholm Bloodbath 321 Stockholm Card 60 Stockholm Pride 23, 74, 23 Stockholms Stadsmuseum 70-1 Stone Age petroglyphs 268 Stora Sjöfallet National Park 299 Storkyrkan Storlien 271, 272 Storsjön 266, 267 Storsjöodjuret 269 Storuman Strindberg, August 62-3, 214, 320, 333 Sture the Elder, Sten 320 Styrsö 164 Strömstad Strömsund 291 Sundsbergs Gård 131 Sundsvall climate 264 Sunne surfing 181 sustainable travel, see responsible travel Svartsö 101 Svensk Biogas 226 Svensson, Tom 297 Sveriges Järnvägsmuseet 273 Sweden basics Swedish empire swimming Göteborg Malmö 187 Stockholm 72 Sälen Södermanland

11 373 T tattoos 276 telephone services 15, Teknikens Hus 287 Tekniska Museet 66 Thielska Galleriet 64 time 347, midnight sun 302 tipping 17, 36, 345 Tjärö 219 Tjörn 166 Tobaks & Tändsticksmuseum 63 toilets 93, 347 Torsby tourist information 347 tours 354, see also individual destinations, boat cruises, snowmobile safaris ABBA 74 art 74 Stockholm 51, 72-4 towers Norra Stadsberget 278 Vidablick Utsiktstorn 138 train travel 360, see also border crossings Inlandsbanan 13, 294, 355, 13 to/from Sweden 350, 351 within Sweden Tranströmer, Tomas 316 travellers cheques 345 travel to/from Sweden , 360 travel within Sweden 352-5, 360 Trelleborg Treriksröset 310 Trollhättan Trosa 67 truffles 261 Trysunda 281, 282 Turning Torso building 332 TV 341 Tällberg Tänndalen Tändsticksmuseet 232 Tärnaby U Uddevalla 170 Uggarderojr 263 Ulvön 281, 282 Umeå 283-5, 284 Unesco World Heritage Sites 13, 317 Union of Kalmar 320 Universeum 150 Uppland Uppsala 45, , 110 accommodation 107, activities 112, 128 climate 107 drinking entertainment food 107, 113 highlights 108 information 114 planning 107 sights travel to/from 114 travel within 114 Uppsala Slott Ulriksdals Slott 71 Utö Utvandrar-monumentet 220 Utvandrarnas Hus 238 V vacations 346, see also festivals, events Vadstena Vallien, Bertil 245 Varberg Varberg Radio Station 181 Varldskulturmuseet 151 Vasa dynasty 321 Vasa, Gustav 140 Vasa, Gustav Ericsson 321 Vasaloppsmuseet 140 Vasamuseet 13, 63-4, 13 Vaxholm 98-9 vegan & vegetarian traveller 36 VIDA Museum & Konsthall 251 video systems 341 Viking culture 12, 320, 12 Birka 103 books 319 Foteviken Viking Reserve history 319 Medeltidsveckan Stadsmuseum 147 Trelleborgen Vildmarksvägen 292 Vilks, Lars 215 villages 18 Vimmerby Vin & Sprithistoriska Museet 65 Vinga 164 visas 15, 348 Visby , 256, 13 accommodation 221, climate 221 food 221, information shopping 259 sights travel to/from 255 travel within 255 Visingsö Vita Huset 310 Vittangi Moose Farm 304 vodka 210 von Linné, Carl 110, Vrångö 164 Vänermuseet 176 Vänersborg Värmland Västerbottens Museum 283 Västergötland Västervik 246-7, 247 Västmanland Väversunda Västerås , 120 Växjö 226, 237-9, 238 W walking tours Göteborg 154 Siljansleden 136 Stockholm 72, 73 Wallander, Kurt 202, 204 waterfalls Dalsjöfallet 282 Huskvarna Hällsingsåfallet 292 Kungsfallet 223 Njupeskär 329 Stora Sjöfallet 229 Trollhättan 174, 175 weather 14 weights 341 whisky 273 white-water rafting 295 wildlife 326-7, see also individual species wildlife reserves Grönklitt Björnpark 142 Grönåsens Ålgpark 243 Järvso 277 wolverines 326 wolves 326 work 348 WWI 322 WWII 316, museums 310 Y yoik 300, 336 Ystad 202-5, 203 Z zoos Frösö Zoo 266 Järvso 277 Kolmården (Norrköping) INDEX S-Z

12 374 INDEX Z- Ö Kolmården (Norrköping) continued Moose Garden 266 Nordens Ark 172 Parken Zoo 117 Tropikariet 212 Ölands Djurpark 252 Zorn, Anders 140 Å Åhlund, Jannike 262 Åhus 210 Åland 99 Åre Åstol 166 Ä Ängelsberg 123 Ö Öland , 249 central Öland 252 northern Öland southern Öland Örbyhus Slott 115 Örebro 124-7, 125 Öresund bridge 186, 332 Örnsköldsvik 282 Östasiatiska Museet 66 Österbybruk 115 Östergötland Östergötlands Länsmuseum 228 Österlen Östersund 47, 266-9, Map pages 000 Photo pages

13 375 These symbols will help you find the listings you want: 1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment 2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/ Transport These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: % Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bus h Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferry p Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metro n Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subway a Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tube i Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram d Train Reviews are organised by author preference. Look out for these icons: Our author s o recommendation No payment F required A green or S sustainable option Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects. Map Legend Sights Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity/ Course/Tour Sleeping Sleeping Camping Eating Eating Drinking Drinking Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Post Office Tourist Information Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/ Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

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